Podcast: A Chat (and Cooking Videos) with Trigg Brown of Win Son Bakery

The first time I went to Win Son bakery and café in Brooklyn, I wasn’t sure what to expect. It’s billed as a Taiwanese-American bakery, and I’m not too familiar with Taiwanese baked goods. I ordered a few things off the menu that sounded good, and after I brought them to the table, I started tasting my way around the tray, and everything I ate blew me away. Everything was delicious. The bakery and menu items take cues from familiar favorites, such as chocolate chip cookies and donuts, but I was delighted at how brilliantly they incorporated mochi , candied red beans, red rice, and scallions, along with raclette cheese, heritage bacon, and mortadella. It was the best of both (or many) worlds. I was especially drawn to the Fan tuan, rice rolls filled with eggs, bacon, and a crispy cruller in the middle. It was a great combination, and I could easily give up baguettes and croissants for breakfast if I lived closer. [And yes, they have a cookbook !] Another favorite is the egg and cheese scallion pancake breakfast sandwich , which is yet another great argument for combining the best of two culinary cultures, American and Taiwanese. Adam Roberts declared it was the best breakfast sandwich of his life and the best thing he ate in 2023. Since meeting him, I’ve gotten to know Trigg , the co-owner and chef of Win Son , and count him as a friend. It was a pleasure to sit with him in the bakery (pardon any background noise in the podcast). He’s fortunate to have pastry chef Danielle Spencer in the kitchen, who is a treasure, and is responsible for the delicious pastries, along with her staff. In the kitchen attached to the café, the savory breakfast items are made mostly to order, including the scallion breakfast sandwiches and the Fan tuan rolls. Below, you can watch Trigg making the pancakes and another team member rolling up the rice rolls. Enjoy the podcast! -David Win Son Bakery and Café 164 Graham Ave.Brooklyn, NY A few videos from the bakery and café with Trigg… And here’s a YouTube video of Trigg assembling the ingredients for the Fan tuan: Subscribe to my newsletter to get podcasts, stories, recipes, and more delivered right to your Inbox: This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit davidlebovitz.substack.com/subscribe