Pro Clinic: Dr. Tyler Nelson Answers Top 10 Listener Questions on Finger Training, Strength Training, and Optimizing for Performance

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available! https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow In this special Q&A episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson from Camp 4 Human Performance answers YOUR questions, which yielded amazing insights including: Which grip type is the best to train? How to rotate finger training methodologies for optimal results Which finger training to do pre season vs in season What’s the ideal percentage of max for safe and effective finger training? Is it better to be strong for the grade or week for the grade? The mistake of correlating finger strength-to-grade The difference between amateurs and pros on their strength-to-grade performance Surprising study showing elite climbers use less force on climbs than amateurs Set and rep scheme to avoid fatigue when strength training Training while injured How to effectively train power and endurance on the same day How to beat the spinning pull-up bar carnival game Do arm wrestling training tactics translate to climbing? How Tyler programs his training and climbing days What to do if you hit a finger strength plateau - Gain instant access to the FULL Pro Clinic by supporting the show as a Patron (you can even check it out for FREE with a 7-day trial): https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube : @thestruggleclimbingshow - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! Let's get out there and try hard. Thanks for supporting the show, y'all. - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!