Alan Watts: Cheater, Pariah, Hero. Following Your Heart and Tuning Out the Haters

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available! https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - Meet me at ICF this year, July 10-13! https://www.climbersfestival.org/ - In this episode, legendary climber and developer Alan Watts explores: How he inadvertently hazed me on my first Smith climb The joy and fallout of being the father of sport climbing in the U.S. The stunning Watts route that caused a chain reaction in climbing The route J.B. Tribout actually stole from him (it wasn't Just Do It) The wild story of how Just Do It actually came to be bolted What are the "rules" of climbing anyway? Putting Smith Rock on the map, and what makes it so rad Being labeled a cheater by his heroes and peers Balancing performance, health, and joy as an older climber How to have more fun as a climber right now - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Rúngne : Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Rungne.com Rhino Skin Solutions : Perform, Cleanse, Repair… repeat! Amazing skin care products crafted specifically for climbers, whether you’re pulling hard indoors or out. Use code STRUGGLE to score a whopping 20% off your purchase! Arc’teryx : Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:25 Legendary Guest: Alan Watts 00:51 Memorable Climbing Experiences 01:30 Alan Watts' Impact on Climbing 02:02 The Evolution of Sport Climbing 02:57 Smith Rock: The Birthplace of Sport Climbing 04:10 Personal Stories and Reflections 05:12 Upcoming Events and Announcements 06:05 Conversation with Alan Watts Begins 07:03 Recollections of Climbing at Smith Rock 14:10 Challenges and Struggles in Climbing 19:53 The Evolution of Climbing Ethics and Techniques 33:19 The Iconic Route: Just Do It 38:49 The Turning Point in US Climbing 39:27 The Controversial Route Theft 42:19 Debating the Rules of Climbing 43:49 The Evolution of Climbing Ethics 47:06 Fueling Climbing Gains 51:43 The Joy of Climbing and Community 59:50 Modern Climbing and Gym Culture 01:02:45 Reflections on Climbing Legacy 01:08:48 Concluding Thoughts and Future of Climbing - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation , whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great. - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!