368: De Dolle’s Kris Herteleer Takes a Natural Approach to High-Gravity Belgian Ales

Beers such as Oerbier, Arabier, and Stille Nacht may not be as familiar to today’s avid beer consumer, but for decades these unusual strong ales have been staples on the menus and cellars of more adventurous beer bars around the world. De Dolle Brouwers got its start in 1980, among the vanguard in a new wave of Belgian brewers who rejected the consolidation and cynical corner-cutting that had come to define the industry there. Cofounder Kris Herteleer was committed to a more natural approach to brewing, using real malt, whole hops, healthy yeast, spring water, and the highly manual mechanical tools of the decades-old brewhouse they purchased in the village of Esen, just outside of Diksmuide, in West Flanders. Oerbier was, and still is, hard to classify. It limns the space between an overtly acid-forward oud bruin and a strong Belgian dark ale, borrowing from both where and when it needs to. Yet this ambiguity fits Herteleer’s approach; De Dolle isn’t concerned at all about adherence to styles. Herteleer would much rather get you asking questions than provide you with easy answers. In this episode, recorded at the brewery as we sipped beers from their cellar more than 20 years old, Herteleer discusses: switching from Rodenbach yeast in 2000, and the five-year process of getting Oerbier back to its intended expression the prevalence of coloring and backsweeting in 1970s and ’80s Belgian ale balancing acidity and sweetness in higher-gravity beer using a coolship, Baudelot cooler, open fermentors, a Lactobacillus reactor, and French wine barrels to produce complex, flavorful beer that’s more than just “sour” using relatively high IBUs to limit Lactobacillus and Pediococcus activity in mixed-culture fermentation avoiding the crutch of spices in Belgian ale barrel-aging in wine barrels rather than spirits barrels, to avoid “dead” barrels And more. This episode is brought to you by: G&D Chillers ( https://gdchillers.com ) : At G&D Chillers they always strive to Build Great Chillers. Partner with them as you Build Great Beer. Choose G&D Chillers on your next Expansion or Brewery start up and receive 1 free year of Remote control and Monitoring of your new G&D Chiller! ProBrew ( https://www.probrew.com ) By partnering with ProBrew, brewers can fill and seam their canned product at ranges from 100-600 cans per minute. Our unique filling process also ensures low dissolved oxygen pickup and focuses on product quality during the entire process. Visit probrew.com or email us at contactus@probrew.com . Old Orchard ( https://www.oldorchard.com/brewer ) : Berry Blend, Blood Orange, Lemonade, and Tart Cherry are the latest additions to our lineup of flavored craft juice concentrate blends. To learn more and request your free samples, head over to oldorchard.com/brewer Omega Yeast ( https://omegayeast.com ) : Experience distinct transparency and juiciness with Omega Yeast’s DayBreak-V. We've genetically eliminated haze in the popular British-V strain, allowing you to preserve the fruit-boosting prowess while achieving crystal clarity. Learn more at info@omegayeast.com . RSS Maclin ( https://rssmaclin.com ) offers audits and repairs for can seamers and can integrity training. We provide solutions for can damage, seam training, and help your facility become self-sufficient without relying on OEMs. Questions about your can line? Call us at (330) 299-8210 or email at service@rssmaclin.com Brewery & Distillery Workshop ( https://breweryworkshop.com ) : If you’re a brewery or distillery in planning, or interested in adding a brewery or distillery to your existing craft beverage business, visit breweryworkshop.com now and secure your spot in our upcoming Brewery and Distillery Workshop, this September. Indie Hops ( https://indiehops.com/podcast ) : Brewers worldwide trust Indie’s unique varieties — Strata, Lórien, Luminosa, Meridian, and Audacia — to modernize, brighten and diversify their beer lineup. Visit indiehops.com/podcast to discover what’s new in hop flavors. Berkeley Yeast ( https://berkeleyyeast.com ) . Superbloom strains make classic hops flavor; Fresh strains keep diacetyl low even with large hop additions; Tropics strains make a tropical bouquet reminiscent of the finest southern hemisphere hops. Mention this podcast for 20% off your first order. Craft Spirits & Distilling Podcast ( https://spiritsanddistilling.com/podcasts/ ) : If you’re a distiller or curious about it, check out the Craft Spirits & Distilling podcast. Click on the link and subscribe from your favorite podcast platform. Support Craft Beer & Brewing Magazine Podcast