162: Yvan de Baets of Brasserie de la Senne Is a Selfish Brewer

For Yvan de Baets of Brasserie de la Senne, what’s old is new again. All brewing styles shift and develop over time, as tastes change and things come into and fall out of fashion. But for this student of Belgian brewing history, the lack of hops in contemporary Belgian beers was a stylistic travesty that he needed to remedy. Enter Brasserie de la Senne, which—when it officially opened in Brussels in 2010—doubled the number of operating commercial breweries in the city (the only other one at the time was Cantillon). Over the past decade and a half, the Senne brewery has made a mark not just on drinkers but on fellow brewers the world over, with thoughtful, nuanced, unapologetic takes on Belgian beer styles. From classic extra-pale Taras Boulba to hoppy triple Jambe de Bois, they’ve followed a different path than Belgian compatriots, developing a thumbprint of assertive Noble hopping and multiple forays into mixed fermentation—all driven, de Baets says, by the selfishness of brewing only what they want to drink. In this episode, de Baets discusses how they think about and employ hops in their beers, from selection to timing. He dives deep into the impact of tank geometry on ester production, and credits their squat, wide fermenters with creating a lower-stress environment for their yeast—thus favoring subtlety and reducing higher alcohols. His approach to mixed fermentation, acidity, a new pilsner (influenced by the inimitable Eric Toft of Brauerei Schönram), and science-driven takes on traditional brewing techniques all enter the conversation. De Baets, however, is not a “purist” in any sense of the word, happy to give credit where due and celebrate those who brew with a sense of purpose to keep traditions alive. “American brewers and consumers have saved many traditional Belgian styles that were simply dying in Belgium, because the Belgians didn’t care about them any more, which is a shame and extremely sad,” he says. “Some of the Belgian-style saisons made in the US are better than most of the saisons we have in Belgium. Some Flemish reds are the same. I will not say, of course, that some lambic-like American beers are better than the best of Belgium now, but some are approaching them and extremely, extremely close.” * This episode is brought to you by: * G&D Chillers ( https://gdchillers.com ) : Nearly 2,000 breweries across the US, Canada & Mexico partner with G&D Chillers. Innovative, Modular Designs and no proprietary parts propel G&D ahead as the premier choice for your glycol chilling needs. Breweries you recognize—Russian River, Ninkasi, Jacks Abby, Samuel Adams, and more—trust G&D to chill the beer you love! Call G&D Chillers to discuss your project today or reach out directly at Gdchillers.com BSG ( https://bsgcraftbrewing.com/ ) : BSG is partnering with Leopold Bros. to bring a new line of small-batch, handmade malts to brewers and distillers. Leopold Bros. is a family owned floor malting operation and distillery and 2020 James Beard Award Finalist, located in Denver, Colorado. Since brothers Scott and Todd Leopold first opened their doors in 1999, they have created everything from classic unfiltered lagers to a number of spirits, including a wide array of whiskey styles. Learn more about the upcoming malt line by going online to BSGCraftbrewing.com , or contact BSG at 1.800.374.2739. Quantiperm ( https://quantiperm.com ) : Tired of the trial-and-error carbonation processes? Then look at our innovative automated carbonation systems for precise carbonation. These systems handle wide flow ranges to accommodate all your beer, wine, soda, or cider styles. You can even carbonate and directly send the product to a packaging line without tankage! Besides carbonation, QuantiPerm offers robust and economical systems for nitrogenation and water deoxygenation. All our systems have an easy-to-use graphical user interface with reports and graphs that you can pull up on your mobile device. Visit quantiperm.com for more information. Grandstand ( https://egrandstand.com/catalog/category/view/id/179 ) : Grandstand is your source for the latest trends in branded drinkware, apparel and promotional items. We make your job easy by serving as your one-stop-shop for everything you need to outfit your taproom and fans. Current trends include to-go drinkware, tie dye prints and portable coolers. Visit egrandstand.com/lookbook to see what’s trending. ABS Commercial ( https://www.abs-commercial.com ) : ABS Commercial is excited to be a part of today’s Podcast! ABS is a full brewery outfitter offering brewhouses, tanks, keg washers and small parts. ABS wanted to do something fun for the craft beer industry, so they are giving away an ABS Keg Viking Keg Washer LIVE on December 5th, which happens to be national repeal day. To enter, go to www.abs-commercial.com , click on “Keg Viking” page and fill out the contest form for your chance to win! Support Craft Beer & Brewing Magazine Podcast