Big Waves & Fearless Fun: The Psychology Of Surf with Garrett McNamara #282

We’ve had some pretty heavy episodes lately, but this week we’re keeping it chill. And how can we get more chill than a conversation with international big wave explorer Garrett McNamara (and his adorable daughter)? Garrett has done some insane stuff in his days, much of which is documented in his wild memoir "Hound of the Sea: Wild Man. Wild Waves. Wild Wisdom." We’re talking about things like surfing Tsunami waves generated by caving glaciers in Alaska, getting smashed by a 50-foot wave at Mavericks, and breaking the world record for surfing the largest wave in Nazaré, Portugal. We also get into the fear of death that you feel facing these monstrous waves and how Garrett got over it, his top biohacks for healing and recovery, and when to rely on Western medicine versus Eastern healing philosophies. This episode is a whole lot of fun, with some absolutely wild stories, but there are also some great lessons to learn about maintaining your body and health. I mean, this dude was competing at the highest level of big wave surfing in his 50s with kids half his age, so I’m taking notes. 08:30 — Garrett’s upcoming documentary The documentary will cover surfers who have experienced injuries and were told not to go back to big wave surfing 12:05 — Garrett’s rough childhood and how that contributed to his determination to succeed He had to work for everything Developing an unwavering focus on achieving something great His experience with drugs 15:00 — Surfing tsunami waves created by a caving glacier The goal: surfing a wave created by a force other than a low-pressure system Possibly the craziest and dumbest thing Garrett’s done? 19:15 — Facing the fear of death (and getting over it) The process of mastering fear A short glossary of need-to-know surf terms Naming his kid “Barrel” 26:00 — What it was like riding the 78-foot wave in Nazaré Garrett thinks there have been bigger waves ridden since then He wasn’t even planning to surf that day He was actually really frustrated on the wave at first How do they measure big waves? It’s surprisingly controversial What’s it like being put on a pedestal within your field? "The Seven Spiritual Laws of Success: A Pocketbook Guide to Fulfilling Your Dreams" by Deepak Chopra The impact of drug legalization in Portugal 36:40 — The history of surfing and the first humans on record to do it It started in Hawaii as the sport of kings, and only kings could surf 37:50 — His deep relationship with the sea and why he connects so profoundly with the water Surfing was a long-time passion, becoming a pro was a fluke Garrett is actually allergic to saltwater McNamara means Hound of the Sea 41:15 — The epic tale of getting smashed by a 50-foot wave at Mavericks Being out in the deep water without a board Due to modern safety equipment, most wipeouts have been pretty fun, but this one was different How does water break bones? The best yoga that Garrett has experienced "Fierce Medicine: Breakthrough Practices to Heal the Body and Ignite the Spirit" by Ana T. Forrest 47:00 — Garrett’s relationship with pain and how he gets through it When to rely on Western medicine Vs. Eastern philosophies of healing The x-ray of Garrett’s shattered foot How Garrett felt violated after some of his surgeries We can choose how we react in any moment 01:03:50 — Garrett’s experience with plant medicines A love-filled family San Pedro experience Garrett’s ayahuasca experiences 01:11:35 — The key to holding your breath for a ridiculously long time Practicing at every meal Underwater training Mark Visser’s ocean warrior courses The Wim Hof Method 01:14:45 — The one time Luke went surfing Garrett’s recommendation for people new to surfing Go out with a teacher when you go for the first time Use a 10-12 foot stand up board 01:18:00 — Garrett’s special Mercedes surfboard Why Mercedes wanted to create a board Working with engineers to create the best board 01:21:00 — What’s next for Garrett? The McNamara Foundation, a non-profit organization focused on providing children meaningful nature experiences, creating life long stewards of the Earth Helping people be more positive A funny tidbit about "Hound of the Sea: Wild Man. Wild Waves. Wild Wisdom." More about this episode. Watch it on YouTube . Connect with Luke on social media to learn how to take your lifestyle to the next level, plus catch exclusive live interviews & events: INSTAGRAM - @lukestorey // https://www.instagram.com/lukestorey/ FACEBOOK - https://www.facebook.com/MrLukeStorey/ TWITTER - @MrLukeStorey // https://twitter.com/MRLUKESTOREY YOUTUBE - https://www.youtube.com/c/LukeStorey THIS SHOW IS BROUGHT TO YOU BY: BLUBLOX . BLUblox offers a complete range of evidence-backed blue light blocking glasses to suit every need (and, as a rad bonus, you won’t look like a tool while you’re wearing them). 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Use code “LIFESTYLIST” for 15% off at https://bkn.go2cloud.org/SHZ . AND… JUST THRIVE. Imagine this: a probiotic that actually does what it is supposed to do! I’ve tried so many different supplements, and when you find the right one — the one that really works — it’s like winning the lottery. So I was psyched when I tried Just Thrive Probiotic, the first and only spore-based probiotics and antioxidants. Their products have been the subject of groundbreaking clinical studies and demonstrated incomparable effects on the gut, even healing leaky gut. It’s super simple and it just works. You can use code ‘luke15’ for 15% off at JustThriveHealth.com . HELP SUPPORT THIS SHOW! Love the Show? You’ll really love Luke’s Master Market Online Store! It’s a win/win! Get direct links to all of Luke’s hand-picked biohacking and health products all in one place, get exclusive discounts, and support the show by making purchases through the web store >> SHOP NOW . Other ways to support: SUBSCRIBE >> Apple Podcasts + Stitcher + Google Podcasts + Spotify LEAVE APPLE PODCASTS REVIEW >> Simple step-by-step instructions SHARE >> Spread the word! Tell your family, friends, neighbors, and all your social pals Resources www.garrettmcnamara.com Instagram: www.instagram.com/mcnamara_s YouTube: www.youtube.com/user/gmachawaii Read: "Hound of the Sea: Wild Man. Wild Waves. Wild Wisdom." by Garrett McNamara Read: "The Seven Spiritual Laws of Success: A Pocketbook Guide to Fulfilling Your Dreams" by Deepak Chopra Related Shows Episode 23: Surrender To Win: The Rise Of A Peaceful Warrior With Rich Roll Episode 55: Confessions Of A Ninja Warrior With Travis Brewer Episode 83: Functional Fitness: Unlock Your Body's Potential With Cody Storey Episode 103: Myth-busting The Biggest Fad And Fails In Fitness With Mind Pump Episode 167: Onnit With John Wolf: The Future Of Fitness Episode 235: Fitness & Fat Loss For Lazy People: Hacking Hiit Workouts W/ Car.O.L Bike